Wednesday 10 November 2010

Lanvin for H&M - inspiration from the past



I haven't been blown away by Lanvin's collection for serial collaborator H&M - a few too many corsages and bling details for my liking. I may be in the minority of people who wouldn't want Carrie Bradshaw's wardrobe - more specifically, I'd take the wardrobe, possibly turn it into a study, but she could keep the clothes.

However, the presentation on the homepage reminded me of the Theatre de la Mode exhibition I've recently been researching for a piece I'm writing on the history of the little black dress.


To celebrate France's release from German occupation in 1945, and to reinvigorate creativity in an industry heavily restricted by wartime rationing, the top French designers of the day, including Jeanne Lanvin, presented their designs on Elaine Bonabel's wire dummies.

Premiering in Paris' Theatre de la Mode, the show exhibited collections by designers such as Balenciaga, Balmain and Nina Ricci, and finished its world tour in 1946 at the De Young Museum in San Francisco.

Looking back, as well as the obvious Eighties influence - acid brights, tulle skirts and OTT detailing - the inspiration for Lanvin's highstreet collection can be seen in much earlier pieces by the French fashion house.

I love the floral detailing and va va voom volume skirts of these evening dresses from online archives, though perhaps a little bit more expensive than the H&M pieces...


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